Last Call for Pie

Acclaimed restaurant to close doors on February 28

There’s a family-owned landmark in the heart of West Milton, a restaurant called The Pearson House, that’s been serving up home-style meals since 1983. One of its signature attractions is advertised in fancy script on the front window where you can’t miss it on your way in - “Save room for pie!” Sadly, the pie, barbecued ribs, fried perch and other homemade delights will be no more after the Pearson House closes its doors on February 28.

According to restaurant manager, Whitney Ullery, the granddaughter of owner Bob Bianco, the original plan was to close later this year on Bob’s birthday, but the stars didn’t align that way. “We’ve come to a point where it’s time to move on, I guess,” she said in a recent interview. “Grandpa is 88, and though he has some health issues, he’s still very much involved in the business, and we couldn’t do it without him. It’s an awful time of the year to make this decision, but with his age and him needing to have knee replacement surgery, it was time.”

The building at 28 N. Miami Street was erected in 1876 and opened as The Pearson Hotel. In 1903, it was renovated and re-christened The New Pearson Hotel. What is now the front dining room was originally the lobby, and the cashier’s counter may have been the hotel’s front desk. The dining room just off the lobby area evokes the hotel’s style. There were originally 15 guest rooms upstairs. These were eventually converted into five apartments, which are still occupied. The classic architecture and decor add to the dining experience.  

“We renovated in 2014 but wanted to keep as much of the original décor and fixtures as we could,” Whitney said. “The second dining room next door used to be another business and has a different address. They opened that in the late ‘80s, but it’s all connected.”

Providing the customers with a relaxed and comfortable dining experience has always been the goal. “I always make sure my staff acts how I would like to be treated if I were a customer,” Whitney said. “I picture myself sitting there, getting good home-cooked food. We try to achieve the same thing with the atmosphere--it’s not loud, but homey.”

Whether it’s lunch, dinner, or an afternoon cup of coffee, many customers come for the homemade pie. The dessert menu consistently lists many choices, from traditional fruit and cream pies to specialties like Chocolate Strata and Butterscotch Cake.

“Originally, there was a lady from England who made our pies,” Whitney said. “There was a guy that came in and requested something called a Strata Pie, and that’s how it started. We have 31 varieties on the menu, and every day most of them are available. Sandy Bennett, our pie cook, will make them on Friday and Saturday and freeze them. We bake what we need in the morning. When one of them is gone, it’s gone for the day. Sandy already warned me not to sell any more whole pies before we close.”

Whitney noted that customer favorites include Strawberry Rhubarb, Old Fashioned Sugar Cream, Peanut Butter, and Turtle Pie. “Sometimes the Lemon Meringue and the Coconut Cream go quickly. The Chocolate Strata is a very popular one when we have it.” She pointed out that holidays were always good for whole pie sales. “One year at Thanksgiving, we sold 164 pies. Thanksgiving and Christmas are a big time of year, and cream pies really go big at Christmas for some reason.”

As with many restaurants, Pearson House had some days of the week where they could count on large crowds. “After church on Sunday was always busy, and so were Friday nights for perch. We used to do all-you-can-eat perch on Friday nights. We don’t do it anymore, but the perch is still popular. On the first of the month, we barbecued ribs, which are super meaty and fall off the bone.”

Although they may be closing the physical restaurant, those beloved recipes might not be lost forever. The restaurant’s Facebook page has been asking customers to suggest their favorite items from the menu, the ones they would like to try and duplicate at home. “We’re talking about gathering the best recipes and putting out a recipe book,” Whitney said. “There’s also an option that someone may take over the business, since we don’t own the building.” 

All good things must come to an end, and the closing of a longtime family business brings mixed emotions. “I’ve worked here on and off since I was 13, so it’s been about 20 years,” Whitney said. “Originally, I was going to be the one to take it over, but I’m halfway through getting my college degree in psychology. I have five children, from kindergarten through high school - my teenager actually works here as the hostess - but between the family and being in school, I’m ready to move on.

“But I’m sad to see it go, too. We have employees who’ve been here for 25 years, and we’re just as bummed as the customers. We’ve seen regulars for the past two weeks, coming in for one last meal. It’s been a hard thing to let go of. I’d like our customers to remember that they had good home-cooked food when they came in here, the kind you just can’t find anymore.”

The Pearson House restaurant is located at 28 N. Miami St., West Milton, Ohio. Anyone wishing to share a farewell memory can do so on the restaurant’s Facebook page. They can also leave suggestions for cookbook recipes.

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